How To: Attach Bias Tape (with mitered corners)

Bias tape, also referred to as bias binding, has many practical applications. It is often used in garment sewing, finishing the arm holes of a dress, encasing the top edge of a pocket or bottom edge of a hem. It's also used frequently in home decor and accessory sewing to add the finishing touch to a project, such as a blanket or bag. It is very simple to apply and has a nice, clean finished look. Plus when you use a contrasting tape it becomes a fun design element.

Bias binding is also easy to make yourself so you are not limited to the pre-made, packaged tapes... virtually any cloth will do (though I suggest starting with a standard cotton weight until you are comfortable with the process). Clover tape makers are my preferred tool. They come in many sizes and the directions to make your own are easy to follow. Colette Patterns have also written a great how to make bias tape tutorial, here. When you make your own the binding the possibilities are endless; tiny flowers, polka dots, pinstripes, gingham and any color of kona cotton or a chambray. Have fun.

Here we go...

First completely unfold you bias tape. Here I am using tape I made using a 1" tape maker (ending up with a 1/2" wide binding) in a blue chambray.

Pre-made bias tape and tape made with some bias tape makers (such as Clover brand) will have one side narrower than the other. Visible when first unfolded.

Beginning with the narrower side, align the raw edge of your tape with the raw edge of your project, right sides facing. Fold the short end of your tape down at a 90 degree angle to meet the raw edges (shown above) and start sewing, backstitch.

Sew until you come to about seam-allowance distance away from the corner of your project (in my case 1/4") and backstitch.

Take your project out from under your presser foot, fold your bias tape up and to the right forming a 90 degree angle. Neatly finger press.

Then fold your tape straight out to the left along the raw edge of your base fabric. Pin in place.

Start sewing again along this second edge, seam allowance distance (1/4") in from the corner, backstitch. Note: Don't worry about the 1/4" unstitched portions around the corners. They will be taken care of in the final steps.

Continue around your entire project. When you get to where you started, continue to overlap your tape and sew about 2"- 3" past your starting point, backstitch. Cut off any extra tape.

Refold your bias tape: Flip your project over and refold your tape, encasing all raw edges.

When completely folded your tape should just barley cover your original stitch line. This is the reason for your bias tape having one folded edge slightly narrower and one thicker.

If you have a bias tape maker that does not create one side narrower then the other, you simply need to fold your tape slightly off (not quite in half) and attach the smaller side of your tape first.

Pin your tape neatly as you check to be sure all stitches are hidden underneath.

I like to use extra long flathead pins for this... the longer the pin the less pinning, plus they're cute! Also take care to tuck all corners into a tidy miter as pictured above.

The little boat print here is from Kokka's Trefle Collection (edited)

Finally topstitch, about an 1/8" from the inner edge of your tape, the entire way around your project, backstitching when your stitches meet. Voilà!

Note: You could also finish your bias binding by hand stitching the folded edge to the back of your project. This is a nice option when you don't wish to see any topstitching.

Quick and Simple Hooded Tube Scarf

Burrr. It's getting pretty chilly. About time I got my act together and shared this fun hooded tube scarf that I've been meaning to post for over a month now!
Inspired by a ready made scarf from American Apparel, I set out to make my own and have found I like mine even better than any of the mass-market scarves I've recently seen.

It goes together incredibly fast and due to the material used it requires very little finishing. I plan to whip up at least three more as gifts. They are great for a last minute handmade treat and a few of my friends have already shown interest in receiving one.

Here's what's needed:
   1/2 yard of 54" or wider Sweatshirt material, interlock, bamboo knit or other stretch knit.
   coordinating thread
   fabric marker/chalk pencil
   rotary cutter, straight edge or acrylic ruler and mat
   any hoodie or coat hood to trace
   optional - scrap felt for flower embellishment

Here's how:

Lay out your fabric still folded at center seam, take care to smooth out any bumps or folds. Fold hood in half and lay ontop of fabric at selvage, with hood opening looking toward center fold. Use chalk or fabric marker to trace outer edge of hood. Remove coat hood or hoodie.

Next draw a straight line from bottom of hood line across to folded edge. Then freehand draw a curved line starting from the top of the hood continuing straight out to the folded edge. This line should become nearly perpendicular to the bottom line. The shape should be as pictured above.

Now using your rotary cutter and straight edge cut along bottom line. Then free hand cut along hood edge and top curve, slow and steady with out lifting your blade. Set this large piece aside. Next using your straight edge or acrylic ruler cut a 4"x 22" strip from the remaining fabric (see upper left portion in above photo).

Unfold large scarf piece, pin strip right-sides together along one rounded hood edge. Strip will be longer then hood edge, trim off extra. Sew with a 1/4" seam allowance. Trim seam to 1/8". I find I can get the cleanest cuts with knit fabric by laying it flat on mat  and trimming seam allowance with my rotary cutter rather then with scissors.

Now with right side facing pin center strip to opposite hood edge. Again, sew with a 1/4" seam allowance and trim to 1/8". Turn right sides out and Voila.

To wear first put on hood, twist once and wrap slack around to back. Wear with hood up or down.

For felt flower (same as the flower in our current header) simply cut out a five petaled flower and 2 green leaves from scrap felt. Get pdf of flower template here. Attach the three pieces by sewing a few cross stitches in the center of the flower with a contrasting color of floss. Attach a safety pin or a brooch back and pin onto scarf.

Though knit fabrics yield the quickest results, this scarf could be made from anything you like, as long as it's wide enough. It'd be supper cute in the new extra wide Anna Maria Dobby Dots or a wide wool, lined with a sweet voile print. To do this I would make two of the above scarfs, one from an exterior fabric and one from a lining. Then I would sew the two together with right sides facing using a 1/2" seam allowance, first along top curved edge. Then along the bottom edge leaving about 5 inches open. Turn right sides out through opening and close using a blind stitch or topstich around top and bottom edges.  And done!

How To: Sew a French Seam

I love French Seams!

They are quick, simple and clean. Especially nice for kids clothes that need to endure lots of wash cycles. This is a perfect technique to use when working with fabrics that tend to fray heavily or if you just want a professional, polished finish without a serger or overlock stitch. With a French Seam all raw edges are completely enclosed. No unraveling.

The technique may at first feel counter intuitive but once you've seen it (or sewn it) you'll see it's quite simple and makes perfect sense. There is only a bit of extra math involved in order to determine your finished seam allowance. I will explain how to sew a French Seam if your pattern includes either a 1/2 or 5/8 seam allowance (SA).

If 1/2" SA included - First with WRONG sides facing sew a 1/4" seam.

5/8" SA included - First with WRONG sides facing sew a 3/8" seam.

Next carefully trim seam allowance to 1/8".

Open pieces so that right sides and seam are laying face up, press seam allowance neatly to one side.

Turn again so that RIGHT sides are now facing, press.

Stitch 1/4" from the edge. Finally turn right sides out and voila! You have a completely encased French Seam.

Just a taste.

Fabrics ala Moda.

Moda is the newest addition to our ever expanding group of fabric suppliers. It was only a few weeks ago that we met with their charming salesman, Mark, placed our first order and Wow! several of the items are already here.

Most of the prints we've received so far are wonderfully classic with a bit of retro kitchen fun. Many of the fabrics from this grouping are 54" wide and perfectly suited for funky table linens or other home decor.
Though its a bit too late for Cinco de Mayo now... these Mexican cowboys and fun fiesta print would make great tablecloths for a summery gathering. Mmmm... I'm suddenly craving homemade tacos, fresh tomatoes and my dad's amazing salsa, loaded with cilantro picked straight for his back yard.













Oh and of course mom and I could not resist these adorably packaged "Learn to Sew" kits. Within their precious tin boxes the two kits include coordinating, quality fabric and supplies for your young sewer to embark on their first simple project.

And last but definitely not least, something for the pups! These perfectly paired prints would make up a super cute doggy bed, don't you think?


I have to admit that I'm more of a cat person (please don't hate) though I seriously cannot resist Scottish Terriers and miniature Schnauzers, honestly who couldn't? their cuteness is ridiculous!!